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This describes the course of a two week cruise in a GK24.
Navigational equipment:
charts
Crew: Just Shirley and myself
Spent an hour packing the boat with food.
Sailed from Hamble to Yarmouth Isle of Wight at about 1830 after packing the boat with clothes. Wind blew for a while. Watched an air display over the Solent by Bourne Gap Buoy. Wind died totally, so motored into the sunset and arrived in Yarmouth. Motored around inside and berthed alongside a Sigma 33, right beside the public landing pontoon.
Went into work by inflatable dinghy, ferry and extremely bad South
West Trains service. Train conductor's watch had stopped, and so we
kept telling her the time. Delays though due to SWT breakdown and
then they had to let through 'foreign' trains or pay penalties. Set
sail that evening and left on the tide about 1800. Had a pleasant
ride into SW force 3-4 until the Needles when we were overtaken by
some sort of two handed race. They sailed off into the sunset leaving
us going up and down.
It was actually quite cold, and then the visibility closed down.
There was a half moon, but the clouds came over. We couldn't see any
lights at all except for one of the DANGER ZONE buoys off St Aldhelms
head which we were confused by. It was near to us and flashing
slowly. We realised that visibility had become very bad and we were
now over the ledge. Fortunately the tide was slack so we could carry
on straight over.By this time we were both very tired and so we
decided to make for Weymouth and stop for the rest of the night. We
put on the engine to avoid having to tack south and so we made it
easily into Weymouth Bay.
The weather cleared by 0100 and we were able to see Portland
lighthouse and harbour, before making for the leading lights in
Weymouth Harbour. Just before entering we changed our minds and
turned to starboard and anchored off the town in company with a few
others, rather than having the hassle of waking up the town by coming
alongside at 0200..
Next morning we set off fairly late to round Bill of Portland,
against the tide. At first we had quite thick fog, under 1km
visilbility, so we sailed a compass course down the Bill.
At the tip of the Bill the sun came out. We passed the lighthouse and
began our trip into the West. We had been this far before.
A little later the wind became strong enough to sail. We carried on
west, passing 17 miles south of Lyme Regis before putting up the
spinnaker. The wind shifted and we took a heading heading slightly
towards Brixham before dropping the spinnaker, hardening up and
making for Dartmouth.
As it was late, the town quay was covered in rafting boats, and the
marinas were full.
We decided to anchor, and ran totally out of any capability to make
sensible decisions. On the second attempt which involved joining
extra chain to make for shorter scope, we anchored succesfully. Just
as well we have two complete anchors with chain and warp.
We used chain in place of rope to avoid wandering into other moored
yachts. Guessing how much anchor chain the other boat has out is a
common theme for us.
We sank to bed quite exhausted without food or PUB and so we decided
to make the next day a day of rest in Dartmouth.
We paid 2 nights harbour dues to anchor off in the river. First we
went ashore to get some showers. The showers here doors that need 50
pence to get in and another 50 pence to use. The mens showers were
out of order.
Then we went for some shopping and back to the boat. After lunch we
went up river to Dittisham about 2 miles and had a drink in the Ferry
Inn. Poured with rain. Quite a windy day, but anchor held. In the
evening, we went to the Seven Stars Inn for a meal. Walked up towards
the castle but did not get there.
Early start, off to the river Yealm passing Hope Cove after Salcombe.
Arriving 1400 at the Yealm in a force 5 had trouble with the bar and
leading lines into harbour, as we were sailing. Gunnery range beside
entrance uses VHF Ch11. Not on our VHF. Did an accidental gybe where
I just happened to have got down out of the way a second before.
Discovered mineral water bottles leaking into food lockers, and bilge
water coming up the other way.
The river here is filled with boats on swinging moorings. As the wind
blows they swing. We have a 9 foot beam and there were times we felt
about to be squashed as we went through what seemed the only gap.
Moored up fore & aft in a beautiful quiet spot out of the wind
and chop. Went up by tender to Noss Mayo & Newton Ferrers for a
look. we got wet because the river was choppy. Had a meal on the boat
and then a drink in the Dolphin pub
Went to Newton Ferrers to buy provisions
Somebody was taking their pet rabbit out for a walk on a lead.
Went to pub for lunch then to the Kilpatrick steps and walked the
coastal path. The weather improved and we could see across the
Plymouth Sound. Went back through Noss Mayo, and returned to the
boat. Made ready for sea. Took pictures of a hole in the rocks and a
local heron.
Sailed across Plymouth Sound and along to Fowey, with the tide still
against us across the Sound and round Rame Head. Experienced wierd
wind and tide effects around the Head.
Weather improved from drizzle to sunny. In afternoon, we went
shopping in town for food, had an excellent shower in the Fowey
Gallants YC.. bought a beer and then went back to the boat. Returned
in the evening for more shopping and a meal in the Ship Inn.Returned
to discover that were were now part of a raft, a Centaur from Poole
having tied up next to us.
Next morning, the Centaur was still with us, but we told him we would
be there for two nights. He was quite badly bumped by us - we are
lightand so bob around. Paid 14.60 Harbour dues for possibly 3
nights, expecting to use 2. We went off for a trip to Polruan, bought
some food (real village shops) and then back to the boat for lunch
(Centaur had gone).
In the afternoon went back to Polruan, and went for circular walk
round cliffs and through the churchyard of St Wyllow‘s before
returning to Polruan via Pont (Barque on slips for extra Cornish
effect). Bought Coast Path Book and Du Maurier book on Old Cornwall.
The dingy was bashed by a F7 northerly and one of the clips holding
the outboard cover on has got removed by battering. The walk was
spoiled by my believing I left my lightweight waterproof trousers
behind on acliff top. Actually they were on the boat still. Added
shock cord to hold the top on the outboard.
Went to Polruan again and finally obtained some cheese & onion
cornish pasties (for half the price of the same things in Fowey as
well) they are nicer than the real thing ... Fed swans remainder of
the bread, ate jam doughnuts and had coffee.
Sailed at about 1145. Was able to avoid an RNLI exercise in the Fowey
harbour, including helicopter. Reached off at 6 knots into the West.
Apart from following the GPS, we found the way to Falmouth by
following the convoy of yachts going to and from Fowey.
Wind got up towards Falmouth but managed to sail past the Docks on
the way to the marina. Were able to avoid the rush into Falmouth
marina, but still spent time trying to fend off with help from
berthing master.
We had slightly different ideas about how to come alongside and raft
up another Westerly that was going to the scillies the next day.
Eventually we got it and ran for the showers and the laundrette.
14.10 for a night.
Went to the restaurant and had an excellent meal as the restaurant at
the marina was good. Slightly surreal as we kept on rushing out to
check the laundry
Laundry finished and we went back to the boat. Then we took a walk
into Falmouth to help walk off the dinner. we went as far as a church
in the town centre. The place was full of restaurants and night
clubs. Quite a large place.
Next morning we were woken by our neighbour rafted inside us setting
sail for the Scillies at 0600. We had to re-tie the lines and while
we were at it we turned the boat.
We filled up the tank with water, bought some charts and set off. We
sailed into St Mawes up to the dinghy park and the shallows, turned
back and sailed out for the Helford river.
We then decided to visit Gillam Cove, where the wind ended up blowing
straight in making departure difficult. Theres a large rock bang in
the middle of the entrance, and I still dont know how big it is really.
Once outside we set sail for the Manacles cardinal buoy against the
tide (quite strong for the region. It's so nice to see tide streams
of less than 1 knot springs). Having arrived , we could see the
Lizard in the distance. We then sailed into the Helford River and
picked up the last visitors buoy, winning the race for it :-) Went to
the Shipwrights arms pub via Frenchman's Creek. We are determined to
have Sunday lunch at the Arms tomorrow.
Sat around in the river until 1130 writing postcards and then went over to post them and have lunch. Found UHT milk in Post office (a first in Cornwall !!) and even an 1145 postal collection. Went and had a salad each before setting off into very light wind from E. Motored into Falmouth and continued up the river past Sunday evening races to a pool just below a beautiful house (Trelissick House)
Motored back down to Falmouth and managed to get a swinging mooring
beside the Visitors Marina with the help of a friendly harbour
master‘s launch. Then we walked up to the Pendennis Castle and
went for a wander around. Discovered we had missed the Cornwall 500
celebration while in the Helford River (I thought the gunnery
practice at Plymouth was a bit too far away to be heard in the
Helford River!)
Walked down to the little Dennis fort before back for a a shower.
Yes, the Visitors Yacht Haven has nice showers ! Beats the Falmouth
Marina ones by miles. Then picked up Fish & Chips and ate it on
the boat. Went back in for a drink and a wander.
The next morning motored off late and stopped off after passing Nare Head to wait for the tide. then motored to Dodman point and sailed most of the way across Mevagissey and St Austell Bays (slowly), through a Dart championship being sailed off Pentewan Sands. Made it to the upper pontoon in Mixtow Pill, Fowey and tied up. Everything covered in white clay dust. Had a meal in the pub in Fowey . Extremely high tide : 5.77m. Watched china clay ship leave after meal.
Fowey to Salcombe. Motored in light winds and poorish visibility to
Salcombe. Plenty of floating rafts of seaweed near each river mouth
due to high tides.
Just off Bolt Head we started sailing and wasted a little time before
being first crossing the Salcombe bar. It seems that whoever dares to
make the tidal calculations and gets the answers right gets the
visitors mooring first. Picked up a visitors mooring and then had
another boat from Exmouth raft alongside us. We were told that there
is usually enough water to get into Salcombe at all states of all
tides. Just stay left of the leading line. Looked at his boat. Bilge
keeler, fairly shallow draft. Think we will stick to calculation.
Plenty of ICC trainees hurtling around in Wayfarers and Toppers.
Tide running very fast. Needed engine on dinghy or the harbour taxi..
Went ashore to the pub and had a filling meal. Wandered around
Salcombe. Rather full of tourists and hot and crowded. Expensive supermarkets
After walk took a trip in the dinghy up the river and then back down
again. Slept fairly well.
Sailed from Salcombe for Dartmouth or Brixham, after filling up the
diesel and coating the boat in that amazing fragrance for sailors:
Diesel Sailing Trousers.
We were expecting a Force 6 but the wind was a lot lighter out of the
river. Made good time round Start Point and then to Brixham Marina
which still had spaces even when Torquay was rather full. Showers and Laundrette.
Ate meal on the boat. All taste like pot noodles. Resolve to go on
cookery evening class in place of RYA course this autumn.
Motored out from Brixham with a Force 4 astern. Concern at making the
tide meant we kept the engine on and once the tide turned with us we
made excellent progress. Later analysis of GPS track logs show a
maximum of 9 knots over the ground.
We used the strong tides just off the Portland Race to push us
onwards (but we did just touch the race itself, a bit bouncy) and
then turned more Northeast , passing St Aldhelm's head and finally
getting extremely contrary tides and a big race off Anvil point.
Turned engine off and sailed in Force 5 to Force 6. Surfing but being
gradually blown ashore into the cliffs, we had to gybe and put the
engine on again. Put in 3rd reef after lowering main sail to deck
then off surfing again. Tide at least 5 knots against us !! GPS said
2 knots over ground, Log said 8 knots through water.
Anchored in slightly less than exactly the minimum depth behind
Handfast point (0.4 metres is not the same as 1 foot even when you
are tired) and went ashore to Studland for an evening meal in the
Banks Arms Hotel. Calm evening , scenic sunset, went back aboard and
noticed that the boat would swing only if we both stood the same side !!
Force 6 forecast, we set off at 1100 in poor visibility in the fog.
Sailed with No. 2 at first and then put up the main with three reefs.
It became quite rough and we found ourselves broaching and rolling as
the waves increased in size although we were sailing with the tide.
Shirley looking for the nice level horizon got the only wave to break
hard full in the face. She woke up pretty quickly.
Took the North Head Channel into the Solent. We could see the
breakers on the Shingles. Passage with the tide into the Solent
through Hurst Narrows was the usual white water rafting - little
nasty waves slap around.
In the Solent it became clear that all marinas and anchorages were
quite full as the weather was bad and there was an Admirals Cup
warm-up at Lymington. Fortunately our berth was free still so we
arrived home early.
422 nautical Miles over ground according to GPS
450 nautical miles according to dodgy log.
Page © Mike James 07 Apr 1997
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