Deck Problems

The GK24 has a deck which is mostly end-grain balsa laminated on each side with fibreglass laminate. Some parts of the deck are simply laminate without the balsa : for instance the after part of the coachroof where winches are fitted . Most defects manage to get the balsa core wet, although Forethought also features one area where the balsa and fibreglass has separated: probably as a result of a stanchion removal incident.

Soggy Deck

This is the main manifestation of the damp deck laminate.
This is where water has got into the balsa core of the deck through cracking round a stanchion base, or from the bolts holding down the toe rail.
It comes out slowly back through the deck laminate, leaving blisters on the top surface of the deck.
The blisters make the paint peel off . Even placing duct tape on the deck and leaving it is enough to cause blisters to appear. Under all of the deck fittings there are usually little blisters.

Stanchion Bases

The stanchion bases were crudely fixed to deck by Westerly :

Stanchions can be ripped out by minor collisions. Professional repairs often are weaker than original. I would say you can tell if its been repaired if it has no stress cracks in the deck around the stanchion base.

For Forethought it looks like this : imagine this is counting from bow to stern.

	Port	Starboard
1	No damage	Professionally repaired with about 30cm of deck gelcoat replaced
2	Badly cracked round base and down to hull-deck join at purchase, cracks opened out , cleaned and flooded with thickened epoxy, decking replaced.	Minor cracks
3	Ripped out in collision with RTI declaration barge, ply plate under deck	Ripped out by two different neighbours in marina

There will also be bolts visible below the deck if repaired, as Westerlys glassed over the underside of the bolts under the deck when they fitted the stanchions..

If the bases havent been ripped out the balsa core collapses and the stanchions become more vertical.

Fortunately, repairing the stanchion bases is a DIY possibility as there is access to the underside. I refitted one myself in 2 days of work.

Also look out leaks through deck fitting bolt holes causing water to get into the balsa deck core.

The hull itself is pretty solid - just the deck is a bit weaker ..

Other Deck leaks

Leaks through chain plate bolts

As the deck bends under the stress of the rigging, eventually the chain plate lifts away from the deck, the sealant cracks away, and water goes down the bolt holes and inside.

Leaks around main hatch

Unfortunately I just found another leak that involves some 'rotten' brass screws. It doesnt sink the boat but it makes a mess.

The screws that fix the main hatch housing assembly to the coachroof become damp as the sealant under the teak fails. They are then rotted away and then snap off when it freezes after heavy rain (December 1999). Remaining screws are usually so rotten you can not undo them but they shear off nicely.

Further rain then runs down the screw holes and under the headliner to appear in the lockers above the berth. This results in saturated foam in the headliner.

Its DIY fixable but uses a lot of glue and drying out time with the headliner.

You have to remove the teak bar across the forward end of the hatch on the coachroof first of all as this locks the other teak bars to port and starboard.
Undo all the screws including the ones attaching the bars to the upright surrounds for the washboards under teak plugs.
Move the forward ends of the bars in towards the centreline of the boat to remove them.
There is a slot on the lower edge of these bars that engages with the coachroof GRP.
I had re-seated some components with Sikaflex and the wood split rather than the Sikaflex coming un-stuck. Watch out.

mike@hamble.demon.co.uk